Four giant orange pyramids are pushed with men’s shouts during the summer night and the air gets hotter and hotter. Tobata Gion Festival is one of the three biggest summer festivals in Fukuoka. It is energetic and beautiful.
Festival representing the summer of Fukuoka
Tobata is a city located in northern Fukuoka Prefecture, the biggest prefecture in Kyushu island. In the early 19th century, people in that region suffered from plague. They prayed to gods then sick people were gradually healed one by one. They made decorations called “Yamagasa” to celebrate the end of plague and dedicated Yamagasa to gods. Yamagasa means large floats in Japanese. This is how Tobata Gion Festival was started in 1803.
Ever since then the festival has continued for over 200 years. The festival is designated as one of the Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties and is also listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Tobata Gion Festival is held in every summer for 3 days, from 4th Friday of July to the 4th Sunday of July. Saturday is the the day that the biggest event takes place. In 2018, this festival is held from July 27th to 29th.
Ever since then the festival has continued for over 200 years. The festival is designated as one of the Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties and is also listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Tobata Gion Festival is held in every summer for 3 days, from 4th Friday of July to the 4th Sunday of July. Saturday is the the day that the biggest event takes place. In 2018, this festival is held from July 27th to 29th.
Festival lasts for 3 days, but it takes so much preparations and rituals
Although Tobata Gion Festival lasts for only 3 days, the preparation begins in mid-June. The officials are called to several shrines and have to participate in Shinto rituals to get purified. Then they start building Yamagasas, the giant floats. Purified officials use everything from the nature to build Yamagasa. So, instead of nails, ivies are used to bind each part of Yamagasa.
Some rituals are held before the actual Tobata Gion Festival takes place. Shishimai is an example. Shishimai literally means the lion dance and it is Japanese traditional performance art. The dancer with lion costume walks the same route that Yamagasa will be carried on. The purpose of this ritual is to purify the road for Yamagasa so Yamagasa is carried on the clean route.
Some rituals are held before the actual Tobata Gion Festival takes place. Shishimai is an example. Shishimai literally means the lion dance and it is Japanese traditional performance art. The dancer with lion costume walks the same route that Yamagasa will be carried on. The purpose of this ritual is to purify the road for Yamagasa so Yamagasa is carried on the clean route.
The festival starts from local shrines
When Tobata Gion Festival starts, men wear traditional uniforms called “Happi and traditional shoes called “Tabi”. Each Yamagasa is carried by these men and walked through the town during the daytime. All 8 Yamagasas are decorated gorgeously with full of embroideries using gold and silver strings. Each Yamagasa has their own symbolical decoration called “Miokuri”. Miokuri is 1.5 meters (4.9 feet) long in diameter and each Miokuri has embroidery of either lion, eagle, tiger or Buddha that represents each group of Yamagasa.
While Yamagasa is carried, people shout-out “Yoitosa! Yoitosa!” together which unite them as a team and make it easier for them to carry the heavy floats. You will also hear music band playing “Hayashi.” The band uses only traditional instruments such as drums, flutes and gongs. There are 4 different groups of Yamagasas so you will hear 4 different kinds of Hayashi as well. Each group has 2 Yamagasas; large one is for men and small one is for boys.
While Yamagasa is carried, people shout-out “Yoitosa! Yoitosa!” together which unite them as a team and make it easier for them to carry the heavy floats. You will also hear music band playing “Hayashi.” The band uses only traditional instruments such as drums, flutes and gongs. There are 4 different groups of Yamagasas so you will hear 4 different kinds of Hayashi as well. Each group has 2 Yamagasas; large one is for men and small one is for boys.
The hottest moment is during the night!
The most exciting part of Tobata Gion Festival takes place in Saturday night. All decorations on Yamagasa is removed and 12 layers of 309 paper lanterns are set on Yamagasa instead. “Night version” of Yamagasa becomes 10 meters (32 feet) tall and weighs about 2.5 tons. About 80 men carry one Yamagasa and create a powerful movement. Compared to “day version” of Yamagasa, which is decorated in various colors, the night version looks simply orange with lanterns. Once you see it, it will make sense to you why Yamagasa in the night is called “Pyramid of Light.” 8 Yamagasas come together and the festival area becomes filled with hot air and spectacular scenes. What makes Tobata Gion Festival distinctively unique is people decorate Yamagasas differently during the daytime and the night. You can enjoy two different versions of Yamagasas only in a day.
Tobata Gion Festival is considered as one of the three biggest summer festivals in Fukuoka. Although tourists cannot join to carry Yamagasas since it is not easy to do, more than hundred thousand people come and see the festival. Especially during Saturday night, is highly crowded. If you want to see Yamagasa in front, you can reserve spots for 3,500 yen per each seat. The ticket is available at Tobata Ward Office from 9 a.m. of July 2nd. Each person can reserve a maximum of 10 seats. On Festival day the area opens from 5 p.m. and first comes are first served.
You are better to come and see Tobata Gion Festival during the daytime because Yamagasa in the daytime and night is dramatically different and you will not believe that they are the same float. In the night, hundreds of paper lanterns are carried with shouts of “Yoitosa! Yoitosa!” The music of traditional instruments entertains this exciting mood much more. Yamagasa, the huge and heavy float, will be running as if it is alive. Men who were born and raised in Kyushu are sometimes called “Kyushu Danji ” which are stereotyped as tough and masculine men. You will understand where they got their nickname from once you see them moving the huge floats real fast.
You are better to come and see Tobata Gion Festival during the daytime because Yamagasa in the daytime and night is dramatically different and you will not believe that they are the same float. In the night, hundreds of paper lanterns are carried with shouts of “Yoitosa! Yoitosa!” The music of traditional instruments entertains this exciting mood much more. Yamagasa, the huge and heavy float, will be running as if it is alive. Men who were born and raised in Kyushu are sometimes called “Kyushu Danji ” which are stereotyped as tough and masculine men. You will understand where they got their nickname from once you see them moving the huge floats real fast.
Photos from the Festival
How to visit?
From Tokyo, take a direct flight to Kita Kyushu Airport for 1 hour 30 minutes. From Kita Kyushu Airport, take a shuttle bus to Kokura Staton Bus Center for 40 minutes. Then take the JR Kagoshima Line from Kokura Station to Tobata Station for 9 minutes. After you arrive at Tobata Station, it is about a 10 minute walk to get to the area of Tobata Gion Festival.
