Bistro Kamiya Ichibei Katamachi

Tucked into Katamachi, Kanazawa's liveliest nightlife district near the Saigawa Ohashi Bridge, Kamiya Ichibei occupies a renovated machiya townhouse built 141 years ago as a paper merchant's shop—a history still carried in its name ("kamiya" means paper shop). The house specialty is whole nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), grilled slowly over charcoal until the skin crisps and the rich, sweet fat melts through the flesh. Daily sashimi arrives from Omicho Market, and homemade tofu dishes round out a menu built for pairing with an extensive lineup of Hokuriku sake. Private rooms are available from two guests up, including fully enclosed spaces, making it a good fit for travelers who want a quiet, atmospheric dinner. After a day at Kenrokuen or the 21st Century Museum, this is a natural first stop into Kanazawa's evening.